Texture, Texture, Texture
Approaching fashion through a textile-first lens: We are exploring the possibilities of fabrics to take us through the seasons.
This month, marking the entry into summer for us in the northern hemisphere, we are thinking about the fabrics that make us feel good under the blazing sun. From Anaak’s breezy silks to Manuelle Guibal’s crisp thin cotton poplin, summer doesn’t have to be defined by tiny tank tops and short shorts to keep us cool.
Four Questions with Marissa Maximo, Founder of Anaak
– Going Deeper with The Book of Kin Creators:
Raised by a single mother, with grandparents who immigrated from the Philippines, Marissa Maximo grew up drawing and painting. Her mother encouraged her interest and skill, and before she knew it she was enrolled on scholarship at RISD. She built Anaak as a way to give back, to support women in the ways she was supported to grow in her practice.
In collaboration with the Women Weave Charitable Trust, Anaak drives business growth in rural India and Bolivia, guaranteeing fair wages, good working conditions, and the use of organic materials. Their mission is to enhance the lives of the women who craft these garments, creating both a literal and symbolic link between the makers and the wearers. Central to Anaak’s narrative is the principle of giving back, whether through ethical practices or the collection’s portrayal of a romantic global journey.
We had the opportunity to chat with Marissa about her approach to sourcing materials, her relationship to craft, and her vision of the future.
Many brands have a defining moment or story behind their name. What’s the story behind your brand’s name, and how does it connect to your ethos?
Marissa: Anaak derives its name from anak, the Filipino dialect Tagalog’s word for ‘child.’ It was a term of endearment bestowed upon me by my mother, but also a universal meaning for all Filipinos, where every parent calls their child no matter the age. It is this meaning that gave life to Anaak, and for me, it is more than a fashion company, it is my ‘child’ that needs to be considered, nurtured and loved each and every step of the way.
The Book of Kin highlights craftsmanship. What can you tell us about the artisans or craftspeople involved in creating your products? How do they contribute to the brand’s identity?
Marissa: Anaak creates wearable histories. For me, a design begins with the fabric. In my quest to find out where and how certain textiles are made, I travelled to numerous villages throughout India in search of techniques and artisans that aligned with the Anaak vision. Each artisan sector in India has its own unique craft and method, exclusive to their region, based on natural resources, cultural meaning and heritage. Anaak collaborates with craftsmen and women skilled in the techniques of khadi, handloom, jamdani, blockprint, batik yyeing and hand pleating textiles.
“I have been on my own journey with navigating fashion and I have documented and shared my personal changes and approach to making clothes. I think this transparency and honesty is important for building a trusted relationship with my audience and validates my message to people.”
Let’s talk about the materials you use. Can you share your philosophy on sourcing materials and how they impact the final product?
Marissa: Anaak’s approach to production is holistic. Split between India and the United States, I am an active participant in the community of artisans and vendors, spending half of the year onsite with them to ensure they are partners in the process. I work closely with each supplier, nurturing relationships as she oversees mindful production, sustainably and ethically, from sketch to bulk production, ensuring the highest quality clothing, season after season.
Looking ahead, how do you envision the evolution of your craft and your place in the broader creative landscape?
Marissa: United by a desire to have a positive impact on the world, through slow-making and intentional craft, Anaak is a collective of like minded women coming together to collaborate on the creative, marketing, sales, finance and operations of the business. Through shared values and a love for thoughtful craftsmanship, we have created a genuine kinship and circular community of artists, craftswomen, designers, writers, photographers, stylists, musicians, activists, and business women. Anaak resonates within, and also from our makers to our receivers.
“Anaak, rooted in fostering relationships, strives to create enduring manufacturing partnerships, maximizing social enterprises to benefit the well-being of the lives of the artisans we work with. We greatly invest in visiting each fabric supplier and manufacturer in far flung remote villages and major globalized industrial cities. It is essential for me to meet who we are working with to see where and how. Once our artisans and suppliers are thoroughly vetted, we commit to working with them long term. This partnership is bound by a collective goal of creating thoughtful garments, where detail and construction are deliberate and carefully considered. I personally do not see myself as a changemaker, but as someone who is simply trying to do her job in the best way possible.”
Anaak / @anaakcollection
United States
Founding Year: 2015
anaakcollection.com
One Piece, Three Ways
The trend cycle pushes us to buy a piece, wear it once, and forget about it. Let’s craft an alternative mode of relating to clothing, shaped by intentionality, care, and creativity. We’re asking: how can one piece be re-invented over and over again, through seasons, gender expressions, moods, and energy levels?
To participate, pick a piece you love and share its story with us (email us via mail@thelissome.com), then create three different stylings of your choosing. Document each outfit with 1-3 photos, and tell us how you styled it.
Second Hand Manuelle Guibal Light Cotton Pants
What: Manuelle Guibal Blue Balloon Pants
Who: Liz McLellan @valerie.elizabeth.crawford
Where: Montreal, Quebec
The Piece: A pair of Manuelle Guibal crisp thin cotton balloon pants that can be worn across varying spring/summer temperatures. Descending from long sleeve, to short sleeve, to tank top; these pants can be paired with varying lengths of top to adapt to the levels of heat and humidity. I find pretty much exclusively all of my clothing second hand, and some brands are harder to come by in Canada. So, whenever a piece by Manuelle Guibal pops up on any used site where I don’t have to ship something across oceans and pay the price of the garment in duties, I snap it up. Buying online, you always get a different impression of the garment from photos. The colour is quite different; some of the precious details not shown. When these arrived, the incredible lightness was a pleasant surprise, along with the beautifully roughened hem and the cropped length for summer.
Look 1:
I paired the pants with a perfectly matching Egg trading shirt I found on Poshmark US for $20. I didn’t intend for the two pieces to go together, but I’m a sucker for a matching set. There’s something about the clean line it creates up and down the body that I just love. It felt fitting to take the photos in my office, where I spent most of the day, with my *also* matching thrifted Erik Hōglund cabinet. The vibrant colours and playful imagery he worked with inspire me in my jewelry practice, as well as in my day-to-day dressing.
Look 2:
On a recent trip to upstate New York, I brought the pants and paired them with, what turned out to be, an extremely nautical outfit (fitting, as I was on the St. Lawrence waterway). I’ve been inspired recently by a friend of mine who has a handkerchief from a cafe in Portland, Maine, that she wears every day. It has holes in it, due to the fact that it was her dog who was the previous owner, and it is just SO perfectly her. This 45R top I found at Gajin Paris is the perfect layering piece with the white manuelle guibal light blazer. You can’t see the shoes in these shots, but I think all for the better. I tried to spend as much of the trip as I could barefoot.
Look 3:
The first heat-wave of Montreal hit and I wasn’t quite feeling comfortable in my body the way I am once I’ve been on a few bike trips, my shoulders are sun kissed, and my hair whipping about in the wind. So, the pants were a perfect way to stay partly covered up while keeping cool. The shoes are from PLA, handcrafted from Jute with a cotton lining. They’re incredibly airy and comfortable. I discovered the brand through spotting a woman in Toronto wearing them: after about 5 minutes of deliberation, I went up to her and asked. She was just as excited as I was to talk about them, and I felt I had met a kindred soul.
Liz McLellan is a creative director, writer and craftsperson based in Montreal, Quebec. She is passionate about answering the question: how do we live sustainably, vibrantly, and in resonance with material world? You can find her @valerie.elizabeth.crawford documenting her favourite outfits, and the beauty around her.
How To: Source Fabrics
Practical Tools From Craftspeople Around the World
In this video, Wendy provides a great toolkit for understanding how to source fabrics for your next sewing project. It’s also a great resource for learning about the functionality of different materials and weaves.
Check out our Slow Fashion Guidelines to link this knowledge of fabrics and their uses, with how to consider sustainability in your choices.
The vlog is brought to you by With Wendy, who creates a plethora of videos on DIY sewing projects, thrift flips, interior design flips, and much more.
Save the Date: We will present The Book of Kin at Berlin Fashion Week on July 3. Please let us know if you are in town and would like to receive an invite.
If you’re looking for more, we’ve launched our latest The Book of Kin print guide.
Our latest edition features interviews with sustainability expert Veronica Bates Kassatly (on greenwashing in fashion), textile artist Katerina Knight (on craft as a pathway to healing), the Fibreshed (on localising our clothing system), a tutorial on silk printing with wild flowers by Paula Delgado of slow clothing brand ound, and a fashion story showcasing slow clothing brands and designers.
Sending much love and see you next month!
Liz + Dörte xx