Meeting our Shadows
How we can access emotional depth, growth and positive change through delving into the depths of our psyches—and, how clothing can be a conduit to this netherworld.
Clothing can be a beautiful way to express and explore the darker sides of our selves. Colours, textures and shapes can connect with and symbolize our shadows; a way to own these parts and externalize them. Maleza Hatmakers “emphasize the beauty and complexity found in shadows, both literally and metaphorically” through their work. In this interview, we delve more into their process and philosophy. We also feature Teagan Jacobs, a designer who creates beautiful feminine garments along with how-to videos on various sewing techniques. Scroll to the bottom for her tutorial on invisible seams!
In this month’s One Piece, Three Ways styling column, Friday, also known as Friday Night Boi on instagram, has styled a rugged linen top from Kinzzza with variations of gorgeous black textiles and leathers. His minimal style emerged from a moment of fissure with the constant acquisition of new pieces; even if those pieces are handmade artisanal and made by, in his words, “consenting adults”. Now, with what some call a capsule wardrobe, his content creation focuses more on conversations around consumption, value and the comedy of it all. His consistently self-deprecating sense of humour brings lightness to the often shadowy sides of over-consumption, cult brands, and the ever-present need to be cool in the fashion content world.
But before we dive into it, we’d love to hear your thoughts and ideas!
We started the Slow Style Chronicle newsletter half a year ago, and would love to hear what you think about it, what you’d like to see more or less of, and if there’s anything else that you’d love to be a part of it.
Your thoughts really help us to make this offering special for you—it’d be wonderful if you could spare three minutes to fill in this quick survey:
Four Questions with Myrte Huyts and Javier Reta of Maleza Hatmakers
— Going Deeper with The Book of Kin Creators:
Maleza is the passion project of Myrte Sara Huyts and Javier Reta Gallego, who found each other through a shared love of old tools, linen bedding, and children’s drawings. Coming from diverse backgrounds—Myrte from The Netherlands with a focus on Literature and Javier from Spain with a foundation in Fine Arts—they decided to leave their previous careers to build something new together. Their shared vision gave birth to Maleza, a workshop where time slows down, creativity flourishes, and every hat tells a story.
In their Madrid atelier, filled with century-old tools and brimming with history, Myrte and Javier handcraft limited edition, bespoke, and one-of-a-kind hats. Each piece is carefully formed using both traditional and experimental techniques, making every hat a unique testament to their craft. They are known for their innovative use of upcycled felt and dead stock materials, which they transform into beautiful creations through sculptural methods and botanical dyes.
At Maleza, the past and future intertwine, as Myrte and Javier aim to create new traditions while honoring the old. Their hats are more than accessories—they are pieces of art that playfully escort a timeless craft into the 21st century. We invite you to discover the world of Maleza, where each hat is a story, and every story is crafted with care.
What inspires you creatively? Are there any books, artists, or experiences that have deeply influenced your work?
Myrte & Javier: We relate strongly to Informalism, an artistic movement that had its peak in Spain in the 1950s, with painters like Millares and Tàpies. We use abstract language, for which the materials play a decisive role. It is important to play with techniques, chance, and improvisation and question premeditated constructions to find a more intimate, poetic way of creating. Another inspiration comes from Japanese fired ceramic such as Raku ware, Hagi ware, or Bizen ware. Treatments are dependent on the kiln effects. The ceramic pieces fire under different conditions, with different results. We feel that embracing the unknown and the impossibility of predicting the outcome is key to finding a more honest and raw way to reveal the imperfectness and unexpected results of the human hand.
The Book of Kin highlights craftsmanship. What can you tell us about the artisans or craftspeople involved in creating your products? How do they contribute to the brand’s identity?
Myrte & Javier: Stories convey the culture, history, and values that unite people. The importance of telling stories in an alternative way drives Myrte Sara Huyts and Javier Reta, the founders of Maleza hatmakers. They create limited edition, bespoke, and one-of-a-kind genderless hats in felt and vegetable fibers, such as hemp and baobab straw. Coming from different countries—the Netherlands and Spain—and different fields—literature and fine arts—they decided to change careers and become hatmakers. This craft combines everything important to them: design, art, artisanship, and storytelling.
What is your brand’s approach to transparency and traceability in the supply chain?
Myrte & Javier: We are very conscious of the objectives for sustainable development throughout the entire production cycle. This means that in addition to closely examining the quality of the materials we use, we also consider their traceability—addressing the where, who, and how—to ensure that economically, socially, and ecologically, we are becoming more respectful and responsible every day. For example, we choose merino d’Arlés wool felt from a small cooperative in the Pyrenees, purchase fabrics with OEKO-TEX certifications, or obtain batches of abandoned hemp, vintage felts, or fabrics from second-hand sources.
All of our production is treated with natural gums made in the workshop, and a significant portion of our hats are dyed here with plant-based dyes. Wherever we can, we buy from local businesses. Our sweatbands are always made from vegetable-tanned leather from a century-old tannery in northern Spain. Another interesting point to highlight is that the wooden hat blocks used to shape all our pieces are designed by us and then crafted by a skilled artisan woodworker from Seville.
Fashion often reflects cultural shifts and societal values. How do you see your work contributing to larger conversations or movements, whether it’s in fashion or beyond?
Myrte & Javier: Everything appears excessively exposed, overly illuminated, flat, smooth, and lacking nuances. We shield ourselves and our possessions with impenetrable surfaces, such as the exterior of a mobile phone. As Byun Chul Han notes, “We resist vulnerability, steering clear of both inflicting and experiencing harm. Commitment is avoided, fearing potential damage.” Everything is about likes, and everything is soft, polished, washable, and, of course, cheap and without emotional anchoring, quickly interchangeable. Observing the subway scene yesterday, I noticed the rarity of traditional footwear. Instead, people don unconventional sneakers with implausible soles, resembling towering cliffs that distance us from reality and propel us towards an alternate realm—presumably one perceived as gentler and less harmful. In the shadow, objects acquire a beautiful and intricate depth that bright light fails to deliver. Craftsmen provide the smallness and the nuances that this world so desperately needs.
“We aspire to contribute to a positive transformation in the way we perceive and engage with our surroundings. By emphasizing the beauty and complexity found in shadows, both literally and metaphorically, and by championing the work of artisans who provide the subtleties our world needs, we hope to encourage a more thoughtful and sustainable approach to fashion and beyond.”
Maleza / @maleza_hatmakers
Spain
Founding Year: 2017
malezahatmakers.com
Save the Date: Sacred Stitching
– A Practice of Weaving Visions into Being with Ania Zoltkowski
6 October 2024, 5.30 pm, Kapelle am Urban, Berlin
Reconnect with the magic of textiles and the creation process. Through intention, ritual and stitching, we gather, let go, and envision new worlds into being.
One Piece, Three Ways
The trend cycle pushes us to buy a piece, wear it once, and forget about it. Let’s craft an alternative mode of relating to clothing, shaped by intentionality, care, and creativity. We’re asking: how can one piece be re-invented over and over again, through seasons, gender expressions, moods, and energy levels?
To participate, pick a piece you love and share its story with us (email us via mail@thelissome.com), then create three different stylings of your choosing. Document each outfit with 1-3 photos, and tell us how you styled it.
Kinzzza Linen Tunic
What: Linen Kinzzza Tunic
Who: Friday Night @thefridaynightboi
Where: North Carolina, United States
The Piece: This beautifully crafted shirt is from Kinzzza, a studio founded in Ukraine. They use natural materials such as linens, cotton, hemp, etc. All items from the shop are produced in small batches , some are made to order.
I wanted, a shirt that I can wear in the heat of summer, lightweight, and breathable. It took 3-4 months for my order to arrive and it was well worth the wait. You can tell that each stitch was made with such amazing craftsmanship and care
Look 1:
Shirt is styled with my silk pants from Elena Dawson. This particular pair, I acquired from Ink Clothing. It goes with everything in my wardrobe. The silk is extra soft, and the shine on the pant is a nice touch whilst being out in the sun.
On feet, I went for a more elegant shoe to match the drawstring and flowy nature of the pants. The viscose laces look amazing with the loose fibers of the hems. These are from Atelier Inscrire. I ordered these from a store called Worthwhile, which is the closest store I have in my area that has my favorite designers in stock.
Look 2:
Linen on linen, is one of the my favorite choices when it comes to the Summer heat. The shirt is paired with linen trousers from Ziggy Chen. It has some interesting patchwork details and sports a very high rise fit. Perfect for a rule-of-thirds look. I obtained this pair secondhand for a juicy steal on the Grailed App. Somewhat balloon and cropped fit so I paired it with my most worn shoe, the Boston Birkenstock.
Look 3:
This look is more of a Summer night or Fall outfit. The shirt is paired with Mavranyma drop crotch pants. I got these second hand from Grailed, as well. It has an amazing “J” type shape that really changes the shape of your legs from different angles. The Haori is a beautiful handmade piece from Yeung Chin. I found this from a page called avantgardistinc on IG. An amazing source for avant-garde brands! They have an online shop as well. The Haori is hands down one of my favorite pieces that I own. The details and the way it drapes always takes over any outfit I wear.
Friday Night is a self-described clothing elitist. He creates content that critiques fashion culture, while loving it. His taste is for the artisanal and handmade, and his palette is usually black. You can find his videos on Youtube here.
How To: Artfully create invisible seams
Practical Tools From Craftspeople Around the World
In this video, Teagan Jacobs shows us how to artfully create invisible seams. What more on theme with our invisible selves, than the hidden stitches that bind a shirt together. She describes her work as “Clothes for the artist and the daydreamer. The ultra-feminine and especially whimsical.” For a written step by step, click on the video and read the caption!
Teagan Jacobs’ garments mirror a beautiful conscious of a designer who embraces fashion as art, promising to weave whimsy and beauty into each garment she personally creates in her Perth based studio.
If you’re looking for more, you can order our latest The Book of Kin print guide.
Our latest edition features interviews with sustainability expert Veronica Bates Kassatly (on greenwashing in fashion), textile artist Katerina Knight (on craft as a pathway to healing), the Fibreshed (on localising our clothing system), a tutorial on silk printing with wild flowers by Paula Delgado of slow clothing brand ound, and a fashion story showcasing slow clothing brands and designers.
Sending much love and see you next month!
Liz + Dörte xx